Holidaying with my mother is of course laced with pros and cons... On the positive side, I get to stay in slightly nicer places (hostels are too much for her, the idea of sleeping in bunk beds confuses her) and eat in slightly nicer places (the woman does like a bargain but deems my usual eating bread on the street a step too far). Further positives are that I am not travelling alone and the company is useful, for instance we took a walking tour of the city, I was able to fall asleep (metaphorically) and get a simplified version from her later.
Negatives are that I am stuck for 8 days with my mother. You can take the person away from the package holiday but you can't take the package holiday out of the person. My mum hence enjoys doing nothing and somehow manages to make wandering about the town centre entering souvenir shop after souvenir shop last all day... Yesterday we found somewhere to sit and my mother not wanting to pay for pricey UK magazines managed to spend 2 hours reading the Croatian ones, she found the way UK celebrities were depicted very interesting, god knows how she worked out any Croatian! Not that I am necesarily complaining as we sample every coffee shop in Split, the only problem is finding a coffee that we define as normal...if you ask for a coffee you get an espresso, if you ask for a coffee you get an espresso with milk, if you ask for a cappuccino you get an espresso with frothy milk on top; or some crazy combination of all three. We have tried a whole range of hand actions and words to no avail, yesterday after a particularly heated sign language conversation, I was handed an espresso in a large cup and given a whole metal jug of frothy milk separately - we give up. Another negative quality of my Mother's is that she believes no one here can speak any English so does the very British thing of shouting at them in slow English. Even when they answer back in perfect English she still instinctively has to shout at them, this is incredibly embarrassing believe you me.
After exhausting every souvenir shop in Split, the last few days we moved to an island off the coast called Hvar (pronounced var with a kind of weird flemy sound on the front). The catamaran over there was entertaining in itself, Hvar seems to attract literally every kind of person under the sun; every nationality seemed to be accounted for, as well as families, elderly couples, back packers, and plenty of rahs ( one of which had an amazing TOWIE tote bag that said 'totally reem'). In a weird way I almost wanted the ferry to crash in a Lost-esque way as the people on that ferry would make a brilliant TV show. As long as I was the main character of course.
Hvar was in my mum's words full of 'Hooray Henry's', we managed to pick the one place in Croatia that is horrendously overpriced. Lovely as it was mind. The food was a particularly highlight as we made our way through cuttlefish risotto (a bright black delight), shrimp pasta, fish soup, muscles, sea bream, and plenty other culinary delights. While one night my Mum went all out and had a glass of wine, she never drinks so after about two sips was feeling slightly merry, made even more amusing because I had chosen a slightly 'hip' bar. She knows some of the songs thanks to aerobics classes and is always happy so show off her moves! A man was doing yoga one morning and she was one step away from having a yoga off beside him as apparently she is more flexible!b I also have a new hobby (as shown below) of photographing my Mum eating, as you can see there are some hilarious consequences, the woman is amazingly unphotogenic.
Sinister risotto while my mum goes mad for the shellfish.
It was at the harbour though, the full extent of the holiday makers Hvar attratcts is clear, the yachts were verging on private cruise liners all complete with crew that polished the white ships constantly. This is the place to meet your rich husband for sure, the pricesest cocktail bar contained plenty of men by mother's age who I would be more likely to head home with. We were more content however spending our evenings in our apartment watching BBC News (naturally the only English channel). We pretty much had a middle aged couple holiday! Having repeated naps through the day and only going for short walks which then tired us out for the day.
HVAR
AND FINALLY
just because its so funny, my mum's passport photo (she is scared of the flash!), I don't even know how she got away with this...
Showing posts with label food. Show all posts
Showing posts with label food. Show all posts
Sunday, 3 July 2011
Sunday, 19 June 2011
FOOD GLORIOUS FOOD
After all this researching what you really need is a good feed! Unfortunately announcing your vegetarian in Bosnia is similar to saying you have a very contagious skin infection: you are met with disgust, horror, and no one knows how to help you. Here they eat Chavabi (a sausage meet kebab type thing) like it's coming out of their ears, chavabi for breakfast, lunch, late night snack. There is obviously no McDonalds here (nor Starbucks!) just McChavabi as they joke - LOL. A McDonalds is opening in Sarajevo in a few weeks though which is causing something of a stir, the Bosnians are all joking that they are charging 2 euros for this little burger (compared to a chavabi this is ridiculously over-priced). But think about it, McDonalds is without a doubt something a concept known throughout the world so imagine if suddenly one opens near you and you have never been able to try one - the queue will be enormous I predict!
One vegetarian option, however, is a sort of pastry thing that is usually filled with meat and called a Burek but can also be filled with cheese, spinach, or potato. Good as it is, its greasiness almost pours out of your skin so it is not really a long term option. One restaurant told me they had nothing for me while when I went into another and announced Ja sam vegetarijanka (you can probs translate yourself) they laughed, maybe at my pronunciation also!
Although definitely possible thanks to lots of bakeries and green grocers this is not vegetarian country; in Sarajevo one vegetarian restaurant does exist but at 3 pounds for a main is considered pretty pricey, a god send for me however. I was told that one girl was travelling round the Balkans writing a vegetarian food blog which sounds an intriguing idea as you would certainly find the weird and wonderful.
One thing I will say about the Bosnians is that there are incredibly friendly and giving, anyone you meet will offer you coffee and insist on paying. They always believe in sharing when they have lots so you can share back when you have lots - a lovely attitude but one that is probably very alien to most students!
One vegetarian option, however, is a sort of pastry thing that is usually filled with meat and called a Burek but can also be filled with cheese, spinach, or potato. Good as it is, its greasiness almost pours out of your skin so it is not really a long term option. One restaurant told me they had nothing for me while when I went into another and announced Ja sam vegetarijanka (you can probs translate yourself) they laughed, maybe at my pronunciation also!
Although definitely possible thanks to lots of bakeries and green grocers this is not vegetarian country; in Sarajevo one vegetarian restaurant does exist but at 3 pounds for a main is considered pretty pricey, a god send for me however. I was told that one girl was travelling round the Balkans writing a vegetarian food blog which sounds an intriguing idea as you would certainly find the weird and wonderful.
One thing I will say about the Bosnians is that there are incredibly friendly and giving, anyone you meet will offer you coffee and insist on paying. They always believe in sharing when they have lots so you can share back when you have lots - a lovely attitude but one that is probably very alien to most students!
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