Well the city clearly has a dark past, it was held hostage during the early 90s when the Bosnian war took place when the Serbs tried to take control over Bosnia. Sarajevo is in a valley with huge hills surrounding it, the Serbs were therefore able to stand on the hills and through sniper fire hold the city under seige. This was near on twenty years ago and of course the city has largely rebuilt itself but there are still damaged buildings covered in bullet holes, burned out houses, and the edges of the city are still very much underdeveloped.
To find out why tourists are in Sarajevo has involved some stealth detective work from myself! (mainly as I am too shy to really approach people and ask directly if they are here because of the war. I am basically a war psychologist finding myself sitting in the youth hostel nodding along while asking 'but WHAT brought you here?', 'do you know about the war?' and 'what sights most interest you here'. Clearly I am not that subtle as most people have asked why I am asking so many questions (oops), I am of course happy to tell when people ask, I just don't want to look like some weird 19 year old scottish researcher
Most people only travel briefly through Sarajevo for say two days on their way to Croatia, Serbia, Montenegro or beyond and hence only have time to see the most important stuff that is mainly to do with the war, such as the Tunnel Museum or bombed out buildings. Some people know about the war and have come here because of that but mostly they heard Sarajevo was a fun city came here and then wanted to learn about the war as they felt ignorant (mostly Americans in this category!). All of the tour guides I have spoken to have also in some way been directly involved in the war, since it was less than 20 years ago virtually everyone in the city lived through the seige (an odd thought when you walk around). Tour guides can describe having nothing to eat, not being able to attend school and living in their basements, which is fascinating for tourists.
One of the most popular sites, the Tunnel Museum, marks the site of the entrance to a tunnel that was built during the war to get food and weapons in and out of the city and despite being little more than a hut is one of the major attractions. The lady who owned the house during the seige helped many soldiers and people and these days (thanks to a short movie) is a bit of a local hero. I watched some Americans speaking to her and they were like 'omg you are inspiring, can we have your photo, here have a t-shirt from Denver, Colorado, and what can our country do to help you?'. Maybe they were ambassadors (very unlikely) but anyway she spoke no English! I have been to this museum (in 3 different disguises) three times now.
The problem then with tourism in Bosnia is that people only stay long enough to see the essential 'dark tourism' sites. I heard the war tourists described as the worst kind, one tour guide said a Turkish woman had come up to her and announced all she wanted to see was bombed out buildings, while others think they will get shot in Sarajevo. However, the scenery is amazing. One day I took a walk up the hills near Sarajevo to a waterfall; as these sites are not that developed getting there is something of a trek with no signs. But the waterfall although being a trickle is the highest in Eastern Europe (I said in Europe to a Norwegian man who assured me it was not!). Nonetheless it was beautiful. Randomly there was a little mountain cabin there which was half way between the most idllyic hut in the world and a scene out of the horror Hostel. I had some stew thing and tea there and thankfully I wasn't drugged and it was one of the remotest meals I have had for sure.
While another day I went to the Sutjeska National Park, which again is horrendously hard to get to, but very beautiful with huge green mountains and a lake where we had a picnic lunch. The only downside to the day was the mosquitos who literally ate me alive. When I get bitten for some reason the area swells up, I look a tad like Mr Blobby right now, at the hostel the owners were very worried it was bedbugs! Definitely not I assured them, but perhaps I could have got a discount in hindsight!
Bosnia certainly has a long way to go in terms of eco and war tourism therefore. People want their country to be remembered for its scenery while any money the country can make from tourism is also essential.... Wherever you go though it is one amazing country!
No comments:
Post a Comment