After all this researching what you really need is a good feed! Unfortunately announcing your vegetarian in Bosnia is similar to saying you have a very contagious skin infection: you are met with disgust, horror, and no one knows how to help you. Here they eat Chavabi (a sausage meet kebab type thing) like it's coming out of their ears, chavabi for breakfast, lunch, late night snack. There is obviously no McDonalds here (nor Starbucks!) just McChavabi as they joke - LOL. A McDonalds is opening in Sarajevo in a few weeks though which is causing something of a stir, the Bosnians are all joking that they are charging 2 euros for this little burger (compared to a chavabi this is ridiculously over-priced). But think about it, McDonalds is without a doubt something a concept known throughout the world so imagine if suddenly one opens near you and you have never been able to try one - the queue will be enormous I predict!
One vegetarian option, however, is a sort of pastry thing that is usually filled with meat and called a Burek but can also be filled with cheese, spinach, or potato. Good as it is, its greasiness almost pours out of your skin so it is not really a long term option. One restaurant told me they had nothing for me while when I went into another and announced Ja sam vegetarijanka (you can probs translate yourself) they laughed, maybe at my pronunciation also!
Although definitely possible thanks to lots of bakeries and green grocers this is not vegetarian country; in Sarajevo one vegetarian restaurant does exist but at 3 pounds for a main is considered pretty pricey, a god send for me however. I was told that one girl was travelling round the Balkans writing a vegetarian food blog which sounds an intriguing idea as you would certainly find the weird and wonderful.
One thing I will say about the Bosnians is that there are incredibly friendly and giving, anyone you meet will offer you coffee and insist on paying. They always believe in sharing when they have lots so you can share back when you have lots - a lovely attitude but one that is probably very alien to most students!
Sunday, 19 June 2011
dark versus eco-tourism in Sarajevo
So aside from drinking coffee, finding 40p dresses, and hitting the salsa hotspots I am supposed to be attempting to discover if dark tourism in Bosnia even exists...
Well the city clearly has a dark past, it was held hostage during the early 90s when the Bosnian war took place when the Serbs tried to take control over Bosnia. Sarajevo is in a valley with huge hills surrounding it, the Serbs were therefore able to stand on the hills and through sniper fire hold the city under seige. This was near on twenty years ago and of course the city has largely rebuilt itself but there are still damaged buildings covered in bullet holes, burned out houses, and the edges of the city are still very much underdeveloped.
To find out why tourists are in Sarajevo has involved some stealth detective work from myself! (mainly as I am too shy to really approach people and ask directly if they are here because of the war. I am basically a war psychologist finding myself sitting in the youth hostel nodding along while asking 'but WHAT brought you here?', 'do you know about the war?' and 'what sights most interest you here'. Clearly I am not that subtle as most people have asked why I am asking so many questions (oops), I am of course happy to tell when people ask, I just don't want to look like some weird 19 year old scottish researcher
Most people only travel briefly through Sarajevo for say two days on their way to Croatia, Serbia, Montenegro or beyond and hence only have time to see the most important stuff that is mainly to do with the war, such as the Tunnel Museum or bombed out buildings. Some people know about the war and have come here because of that but mostly they heard Sarajevo was a fun city came here and then wanted to learn about the war as they felt ignorant (mostly Americans in this category!). All of the tour guides I have spoken to have also in some way been directly involved in the war, since it was less than 20 years ago virtually everyone in the city lived through the seige (an odd thought when you walk around). Tour guides can describe having nothing to eat, not being able to attend school and living in their basements, which is fascinating for tourists.
One of the most popular sites, the Tunnel Museum, marks the site of the entrance to a tunnel that was built during the war to get food and weapons in and out of the city and despite being little more than a hut is one of the major attractions. The lady who owned the house during the seige helped many soldiers and people and these days (thanks to a short movie) is a bit of a local hero. I watched some Americans speaking to her and they were like 'omg you are inspiring, can we have your photo, here have a t-shirt from Denver, Colorado, and what can our country do to help you?'. Maybe they were ambassadors (very unlikely) but anyway she spoke no English! I have been to this museum (in 3 different disguises) three times now.
The Tunnel, which I am probably equipped to take tour groups round now...
The problem then with tourism in Bosnia is that people only stay long enough to see the essential 'dark tourism' sites. I heard the war tourists described as the worst kind, one tour guide said a Turkish woman had come up to her and announced all she wanted to see was bombed out buildings, while others think they will get shot in Sarajevo. However, the scenery is amazing. One day I took a walk up the hills near Sarajevo to a waterfall; as these sites are not that developed getting there is something of a trek with no signs. But the waterfall although being a trickle is the highest in Eastern Europe (I said in Europe to a Norwegian man who assured me it was not!). Nonetheless it was beautiful. Randomly there was a little mountain cabin there which was half way between the most idllyic hut in the world and a scene out of the horror Hostel. I had some stew thing and tea there and thankfully I wasn't drugged and it was one of the remotest meals I have had for sure.
Highest Waterfall (vodapad) in 'Eastern' Europe and the mountain hut
While another day I went to the Sutjeska National Park, which again is horrendously hard to get to, but very beautiful with huge green mountains and a lake where we had a picnic lunch. The only downside to the day was the mosquitos who literally ate me alive. When I get bitten for some reason the area swells up, I look a tad like Mr Blobby right now, at the hostel the owners were very worried it was bedbugs! Definitely not I assured them, but perhaps I could have got a discount in hindsight!
Sujeska National Park and Action Woman apparently!
Bosnia certainly has a long way to go in terms of eco and war tourism therefore. People want their country to be remembered for its scenery while any money the country can make from tourism is also essential.... Wherever you go though it is one amazing country!
Well the city clearly has a dark past, it was held hostage during the early 90s when the Bosnian war took place when the Serbs tried to take control over Bosnia. Sarajevo is in a valley with huge hills surrounding it, the Serbs were therefore able to stand on the hills and through sniper fire hold the city under seige. This was near on twenty years ago and of course the city has largely rebuilt itself but there are still damaged buildings covered in bullet holes, burned out houses, and the edges of the city are still very much underdeveloped.
To find out why tourists are in Sarajevo has involved some stealth detective work from myself! (mainly as I am too shy to really approach people and ask directly if they are here because of the war. I am basically a war psychologist finding myself sitting in the youth hostel nodding along while asking 'but WHAT brought you here?', 'do you know about the war?' and 'what sights most interest you here'. Clearly I am not that subtle as most people have asked why I am asking so many questions (oops), I am of course happy to tell when people ask, I just don't want to look like some weird 19 year old scottish researcher
Most people only travel briefly through Sarajevo for say two days on their way to Croatia, Serbia, Montenegro or beyond and hence only have time to see the most important stuff that is mainly to do with the war, such as the Tunnel Museum or bombed out buildings. Some people know about the war and have come here because of that but mostly they heard Sarajevo was a fun city came here and then wanted to learn about the war as they felt ignorant (mostly Americans in this category!). All of the tour guides I have spoken to have also in some way been directly involved in the war, since it was less than 20 years ago virtually everyone in the city lived through the seige (an odd thought when you walk around). Tour guides can describe having nothing to eat, not being able to attend school and living in their basements, which is fascinating for tourists.
One of the most popular sites, the Tunnel Museum, marks the site of the entrance to a tunnel that was built during the war to get food and weapons in and out of the city and despite being little more than a hut is one of the major attractions. The lady who owned the house during the seige helped many soldiers and people and these days (thanks to a short movie) is a bit of a local hero. I watched some Americans speaking to her and they were like 'omg you are inspiring, can we have your photo, here have a t-shirt from Denver, Colorado, and what can our country do to help you?'. Maybe they were ambassadors (very unlikely) but anyway she spoke no English! I have been to this museum (in 3 different disguises) three times now.
The problem then with tourism in Bosnia is that people only stay long enough to see the essential 'dark tourism' sites. I heard the war tourists described as the worst kind, one tour guide said a Turkish woman had come up to her and announced all she wanted to see was bombed out buildings, while others think they will get shot in Sarajevo. However, the scenery is amazing. One day I took a walk up the hills near Sarajevo to a waterfall; as these sites are not that developed getting there is something of a trek with no signs. But the waterfall although being a trickle is the highest in Eastern Europe (I said in Europe to a Norwegian man who assured me it was not!). Nonetheless it was beautiful. Randomly there was a little mountain cabin there which was half way between the most idllyic hut in the world and a scene out of the horror Hostel. I had some stew thing and tea there and thankfully I wasn't drugged and it was one of the remotest meals I have had for sure.
While another day I went to the Sutjeska National Park, which again is horrendously hard to get to, but very beautiful with huge green mountains and a lake where we had a picnic lunch. The only downside to the day was the mosquitos who literally ate me alive. When I get bitten for some reason the area swells up, I look a tad like Mr Blobby right now, at the hostel the owners were very worried it was bedbugs! Definitely not I assured them, but perhaps I could have got a discount in hindsight!
Bosnia certainly has a long way to go in terms of eco and war tourism therefore. People want their country to be remembered for its scenery while any money the country can make from tourism is also essential.... Wherever you go though it is one amazing country!
Thursday, 16 June 2011
one small (ish) post for one big city
Arriving in Sarajevo is an incredibly bizarre yet exciting experience. My first challenge was getting to the extremely Scottish sounding Haris Youth Hostel. Still unrecovered from my nightmarish night bus journey, I decided that the easiest option would be a taxi and being Eastern Europe I figured it couldn't be that expensive. I, however, lacked both the ability to speak Bosnian and any Bosnian currency - a five euro note, and a combination of pointing, four Bosnian taxi drivers and the Bosnian I learnt on the bus soon sorted that and before I knew it I was being rushed off at high speed. I was then promptly dropped off in a suspiciously residential area with no sign of a youth hostel - the taxi driver happily took my note, smilled, nodded, and walked off.
After a brief panic and wee scout around - the youth hostel appeared. Basically a converted house - you instantly feel like you're just staying at someone's home. The owner started the youth hostel when he was 15, by inviting people he met on the bus back home. Soon her was bringing home more and more to the point that he eventually moved his family out of a few rooms of their house and made a small youth hostel for them that he aptly named after himself. Haris is now 23 and the hostel has expanded so that his family have all been squeezed into one little room.
As you can imagine Haris is quite a character and is one of those people who always 'knows someone' and can sort you out with anything. His sister cooked us breakfast one morning which consisted of potato scone type doughnut things (delicious) with jam and cream cheese AND someone even does your washing which delivers your clothes back the nicest they will ever be. Everyone books this hostel and ends up staying later; the motto seems to be 'one more night'. So far I am on my sixth after just booking two...
When the home from home in the youth hostel is left; Sarajevo just gets better and better especially for those who love a bargain. I am unfortunately developing a name for myself asking constantly how much everything cost and completely obsessing myself with prices. But really this city excels itself: properly good ice cream is about 40p for a scoop, I have yet to pay more than 50p for a good Bosnian coffee, a bag of apples is like 60p, and best of all are the second hand shops. I now possess a 40p dress - YES 40p - AND the world's most multi-coloured and safari themed jumpsuit. In Bosnian this would be called a kombinezon and I would say dorbo mi stoje (suits me well) ;-). The 40p dress I have worn for the past three days and everyone now knows how much it cost me!
Markale Market and the Kombinezon (ignore the scratches on the camera lens!)
Even with the bargain prices, the abundance of coffee shops, banks and bizzarly opticians sorts you right out. Everyone in Bosnia likes to prolong their coffee experience as long as possible so having a coffee is a proper sit down, some Americans were complaning that they couldn't get a take out coffee - an idea that seems hilarious here! Fortunately though sitting down for your coffee means you very often get a bit or turkish delight and the cake selection is always good - they love nutella for some reason! While my experience in the bank was another awkward Bosnian moment; despite there being a bank every 3 metres I managed to find the only one with a queue. The 20 people behind me were not happy that I had a bunch of Traveller's Cheques that required all the cashiers and the bank manager to work out how to exchange. I think using traveller's cheques these days is similar to asking to send a telegram. To seek his revenge the cashier ensured my notes were in 50 marks (the equivalent of being handed 50 pound notes when everything you buy is a penny sweet).
The Bosnians have it sorted...
Drinking here is another cheap and exciting affar; Bosnia's spirit of choice is something called rakija which comes in every flavour under the sun. Plum rakija in hand we went to a bar in an old cinema which was full of Bosnian's dancing along to a live band that got more lively as the beer flowed. Afterwards of course we went to the traditional Bosnian Salsa Club (where is the market for these?!) that had salsa remixes of classics such as U2. My amazing dance moves were of course employed as who can resist Latino music!
Being abroad (especially after rakija) also makes accents more important, I bumped into another Scot (very exciting!) which means eventually I can be understood when using words such as 'wee' and we can speak quickly. Apparently when speaking together we are uncomprehensible. The word steaming is slowly becoming a Bosnian favourite....
So there we go a little bit of Sarajevo in a very small space....
After a brief panic and wee scout around - the youth hostel appeared. Basically a converted house - you instantly feel like you're just staying at someone's home. The owner started the youth hostel when he was 15, by inviting people he met on the bus back home. Soon her was bringing home more and more to the point that he eventually moved his family out of a few rooms of their house and made a small youth hostel for them that he aptly named after himself. Haris is now 23 and the hostel has expanded so that his family have all been squeezed into one little room.
As you can imagine Haris is quite a character and is one of those people who always 'knows someone' and can sort you out with anything. His sister cooked us breakfast one morning which consisted of potato scone type doughnut things (delicious) with jam and cream cheese AND someone even does your washing which delivers your clothes back the nicest they will ever be. Everyone books this hostel and ends up staying later; the motto seems to be 'one more night'. So far I am on my sixth after just booking two...
When the home from home in the youth hostel is left; Sarajevo just gets better and better especially for those who love a bargain. I am unfortunately developing a name for myself asking constantly how much everything cost and completely obsessing myself with prices. But really this city excels itself: properly good ice cream is about 40p for a scoop, I have yet to pay more than 50p for a good Bosnian coffee, a bag of apples is like 60p, and best of all are the second hand shops. I now possess a 40p dress - YES 40p - AND the world's most multi-coloured and safari themed jumpsuit. In Bosnian this would be called a kombinezon and I would say dorbo mi stoje (suits me well) ;-). The 40p dress I have worn for the past three days and everyone now knows how much it cost me!
Even with the bargain prices, the abundance of coffee shops, banks and bizzarly opticians sorts you right out. Everyone in Bosnia likes to prolong their coffee experience as long as possible so having a coffee is a proper sit down, some Americans were complaning that they couldn't get a take out coffee - an idea that seems hilarious here! Fortunately though sitting down for your coffee means you very often get a bit or turkish delight and the cake selection is always good - they love nutella for some reason! While my experience in the bank was another awkward Bosnian moment; despite there being a bank every 3 metres I managed to find the only one with a queue. The 20 people behind me were not happy that I had a bunch of Traveller's Cheques that required all the cashiers and the bank manager to work out how to exchange. I think using traveller's cheques these days is similar to asking to send a telegram. To seek his revenge the cashier ensured my notes were in 50 marks (the equivalent of being handed 50 pound notes when everything you buy is a penny sweet).
Drinking here is another cheap and exciting affar; Bosnia's spirit of choice is something called rakija which comes in every flavour under the sun. Plum rakija in hand we went to a bar in an old cinema which was full of Bosnian's dancing along to a live band that got more lively as the beer flowed. Afterwards of course we went to the traditional Bosnian Salsa Club (where is the market for these?!) that had salsa remixes of classics such as U2. My amazing dance moves were of course employed as who can resist Latino music!
Being abroad (especially after rakija) also makes accents more important, I bumped into another Scot (very exciting!) which means eventually I can be understood when using words such as 'wee' and we can speak quickly. Apparently when speaking together we are uncomprehensible. The word steaming is slowly becoming a Bosnian favourite....
So there we go a little bit of Sarajevo in a very small space....
Tuesday, 14 June 2011
Finding the meaning of the term awkward on a night bus from Munich to Sarajevo...
Believe me - never again will I fall into the trap of the many who describe literally everything as awkward (ok maybe a few turtle motions are allowed) as I have now found a situation that truely warranted the word - the night bus from Munich to Sarajevo. At the time of booking, the 15 hour night bus journey seemed an amusing and exciting prospect but getting on the bus at 7pm the reality of sitting in a seat for over half a day sinks in a bit.
This was made worse by the fact I was the only Brit and definitely the only person who didn't speak German or Bosnian resulting in conversational problems and many an awkward glance. The first communication issue was when the bus stopped (with Bosnians on board this meant every hour as they seem to live on coffee and cigarettes) as the driver announced in some language how long the bus would stop for. I therefore just had to guess and hope I made it back on time, unreasuringly the driver also didn't seem that keen on counting who was on board.
This awkwardness reached its peak at the 7am breakfast stop - sitting alone in a cafe with a coffee you had somehow motioned for while shoving Euros in the waiter's face as Bosnians stared was particularly memorable. Maybe writing this as I sit is maybe not a good plan either, I am going to be accused of being a spy soon.
The other factor I had not considered was that Bosnians sure do love their traditional music, so much so that even on an overnight bus it is played constantly. Now a day off that bus if I try really hard I can still just about hear it!
Of course being me, embarrassment on this bus was almost certain and occurred about 9am (14 hours in) when I attempted to use the toilet (failed to lock it) and had a Bosnian walk in on me and allow me to flash the whole bus. They laughed and shouted 'engleski', to be honest I was most upset that they considered me English ;-).
So all in all I saved some money and maybe was a little safer travelling by bus but did lose my dignity....
This was made worse by the fact I was the only Brit and definitely the only person who didn't speak German or Bosnian resulting in conversational problems and many an awkward glance. The first communication issue was when the bus stopped (with Bosnians on board this meant every hour as they seem to live on coffee and cigarettes) as the driver announced in some language how long the bus would stop for. I therefore just had to guess and hope I made it back on time, unreasuringly the driver also didn't seem that keen on counting who was on board.
This awkwardness reached its peak at the 7am breakfast stop - sitting alone in a cafe with a coffee you had somehow motioned for while shoving Euros in the waiter's face as Bosnians stared was particularly memorable. Maybe writing this as I sit is maybe not a good plan either, I am going to be accused of being a spy soon.
The other factor I had not considered was that Bosnians sure do love their traditional music, so much so that even on an overnight bus it is played constantly. Now a day off that bus if I try really hard I can still just about hear it!
Of course being me, embarrassment on this bus was almost certain and occurred about 9am (14 hours in) when I attempted to use the toilet (failed to lock it) and had a Bosnian walk in on me and allow me to flash the whole bus. They laughed and shouted 'engleski', to be honest I was most upset that they considered me English ;-).
So all in all I saved some money and maybe was a little safer travelling by bus but did lose my dignity....
Sunday, 12 June 2011
You can surf in Munich?
One of the lesser known facts about Munich I guess is that you can surf there, in the middle of the Englisch Garten (English Garden ;-) ) sits a river with an artificial wave in it. This is not just any wave mind but the 'perfect wave' and despite being singular and always the same, surfers from all over the world come to surf it - even Jack Johnson. On a busy Saturday it also becomes quite full of tourists watching the surfers (in their tight wetsuits I can understand the attraction!).
In case you failed to believe me!h
Munich also has one of the most famous beer halls in Germany where for half your arm you can watch a band clad entirely in laderhousen serenade you while you drink with the masses. This I am informed is just a very small taster of the crazyness of Oktoberfest. Of course the British have even managed to infiltrate here, I bumped into a man who replied with 'it's alright sweetchecks' in a horrible English accent - and they wonder why the rest of Europe hates them....
A Laderhosened out band in the Beer Hall and Cari holding the best thing about Germany - giant pretzels!
My final glimpse of Munich was the English language cinema which every week at 11.15pm shows a sneak preview of a film not out for another week or so in germany, this seemed quite an exciting propect as we decided that it could even be Harry Potter ( this was a ridiculous guess I agree). It was Kung Fu Panda II which wow did the german's love (despite their sometimes negative image they really know how to let go when cartoon comedy comes along! It was also reasurring to see that when the Breaking Dawn trailer came on they too were wooping at Jacob's chest and gazing at R-Patz ( proof that Twilight brings the world together I say).
The end of Munich also signals the 15 hour bus ride I must face to hit Sarajevo; I still cannot believe such a bus exists but apparently you can travel anywhere quite literally from Munich...
Munich also has one of the most famous beer halls in Germany where for half your arm you can watch a band clad entirely in laderhousen serenade you while you drink with the masses. This I am informed is just a very small taster of the crazyness of Oktoberfest. Of course the British have even managed to infiltrate here, I bumped into a man who replied with 'it's alright sweetchecks' in a horrible English accent - and they wonder why the rest of Europe hates them....
My final glimpse of Munich was the English language cinema which every week at 11.15pm shows a sneak preview of a film not out for another week or so in germany, this seemed quite an exciting propect as we decided that it could even be Harry Potter ( this was a ridiculous guess I agree). It was Kung Fu Panda II which wow did the german's love (despite their sometimes negative image they really know how to let go when cartoon comedy comes along! It was also reasurring to see that when the Breaking Dawn trailer came on they too were wooping at Jacob's chest and gazing at R-Patz ( proof that Twilight brings the world together I say).
The end of Munich also signals the 15 hour bus ride I must face to hit Sarajevo; I still cannot believe such a bus exists but apparently you can travel anywhere quite literally from Munich...
a little spot of climbing...
So far Munich's highlight has been without a doubt the climbing mecca we made our way to - with Cari at the wheel we did have a few mishaps involving me map reading in german (whoever thought this a good idea), attempting a very illegal U turn and hitting an angry German man's car while he watched (the german accent he employed was particularly memorable). I was pretty glad it wasn't me driving I must admit, always easier to criticise from the passenger seat. After making it to the wall though it was worth it - even those of you who don't climb would be impressed by the multi-facetated selection of options - you can climb outside, inside, holds, fake walls, bouldering AND a children's play wall thing (a personal favourite!) AND to top it all off the cafe upstairs sells pretzels and coffee! A perfect evening in my eyes.
Clearly not climbed out the next day we decided to hit the German alps and attempt some sport climbing. Conditions were not exactly perfect but as this was our only chance we went for it so took the gondola up the mountain. Despite our positive attitude as the gondola went further up the hill the scenery in front instead of looking like the closing scenes from The Sound of Music got whiter and whiter until the gondola seemed to be heading to nowhere. Getting to the top, the Alps were sort of seeable so we started on a wee taster walk; let me tell you though the cows in the Alps actually wear dumbells round their necks and the sheep have floppy ears so I was smitten with the Alps anyway! Despite leaving the guidebook in the car we did manage to find what looked like bolts and hence using the guessing game gave some of the bolted sport routes a go. Everything in the Alps seems to be very quaint and stereotypical, even the routes have cute wee signs at the bottom. However, the incoming mist and heavy levels of dew on the ground did defeat us slightly but hey technically we climbed in the Alps.
And of course the best thing about doing any form of exercise is the reward at the end. At the bottom of the gondola, almost as if it were a mirage, was a perfectly quaint German cafe that was able to serve hot chocolate, pretzels, spargel soup (white asparagus soup, my new favourite meal) complete with whipped cream on top (wasn't feeling this so much) and of course apple strudel. A very successful alpine trip I say.
Apple Studel ;-)
Clearly not climbed out the next day we decided to hit the German alps and attempt some sport climbing. Conditions were not exactly perfect but as this was our only chance we went for it so took the gondola up the mountain. Despite our positive attitude as the gondola went further up the hill the scenery in front instead of looking like the closing scenes from The Sound of Music got whiter and whiter until the gondola seemed to be heading to nowhere. Getting to the top, the Alps were sort of seeable so we started on a wee taster walk; let me tell you though the cows in the Alps actually wear dumbells round their necks and the sheep have floppy ears so I was smitten with the Alps anyway! Despite leaving the guidebook in the car we did manage to find what looked like bolts and hence using the guessing game gave some of the bolted sport routes a go. Everything in the Alps seems to be very quaint and stereotypical, even the routes have cute wee signs at the bottom. However, the incoming mist and heavy levels of dew on the ground did defeat us slightly but hey technically we climbed in the Alps.
The gondola to nowhere; quaint signage; misty crags; cows; and a floppy sheep.
Friday, 10 June 2011
First Munich then THE WORLD (almost)
The moment I am sure you have all been eagerly awaiting has arrived - the blogging returns. The night before my departure was of course a very hectic affair, especially with interjections from my mother asking for a passport photo in case my body needs identifying - said in a proper Glaswegian dead pan accent of course: 'Now Olivia you just never know'. My major worries were not being able to get the Guardian at a good price every day but its good to know my mother at least has all bases covered.
The next major issue was that I had booked a flight from Edinburgh airport that left at 6.55, I had clearly forgotten at the time of booking that I do actually live in Glasgow where sadly public transport is not 24 hour nor is it that near Edinburgh really. After many briberies were considered, my dad was the saving grace driving me over at 'silly o'clock'. Problem number two was encountered at the Ryaniar check in desk; walking up to a Ryanair check out with a rucksack that was definitely 19kg an hour ago and 'hand baggage' in the form of a handbag that looks ready to explode at any moment was always going to receive raised eyebrows. Luckily, with a very leniant check in girl (an impressive feat for 6am) and some sneaky go-ahead bar reshuffeling I was good to go. The downsides of such a large handbag was firstly getting it through security, it inevitably set the scanners off the security staff took one look at it, however, shoved some paper in it and hastily declared it 'bomb free' or some more politically correct term ( good to see security measures aren't slipping). So with not even one minute to spare I ran to board an airplane that would hopefully involve some planning. A glance at the guidebook informed me that actually Ryanair's 'Munich' airport was nowhere near Munich but somewhere called Memminghem, another problem to solve, however I did manage to learn a few German words on the plane, in between constant Ryanair advertising, so with bitta dank shouold under my belt off Ryanair spat me somewhere nearish Munich.
Entering Germany right now is an E-Coli risk I hear, so the night before I made sure I stocked up on salad for dinner and brought plenty of fruit with me. This was partly a money saving measure also but did contribute majorly to the weight I now realise. As I sat on the bus to Munich eating my cucumber sandwich a poor choice made hastily this morning I agree, I realised brandashing my British cucumber sandwiches could come back to haunt me if it has turned out to be a German cucumber and I ironically brought E-Coli back in - now that would be awkward! The risks of travelling eh. But at least I am away from the airport without a scene from the Liam Neeson classic occurring.
With a few hours in a surprisingly rainy Munich, I feel this may be a recurrent theme, I decided that being 'A Dark Tourist' I should live up to my name and went up to visit Dachau. After recently visiting Auschwitz, Dachau was a very interesting but different experience that had a definite German identity to it - its main visitors are German school children and completely funded by the German Government who seem keen to explain what happened and ensure Germany as a nation is not necessarily held to blame.
My first day as a dark tourist had tired me out majorly so after being rescued from Munich town centre, a quick and essential trip to the supermarket (first stop apple puree) was required before definite bed time. After a 'round the clock' sleep plus a few sneaky hours ;-). My second day in Munich was spent well in Munich - after a very continental breakfast, Cari and I cycled (again very continentally) to the train station to get on a very continental uberbahn to the city centre for pretzel time (oh could we have been anymore continental. I also made the radical decision to with Cari by my side I disregarded the guide book in a moment of crazyness leaving it at home as basically I now had the real living deal. We found our way to a Jewish museum that surprisingly was very un-holocaust like but an exhibition on Jews in the media did prove that the German's do actually joke about Hitler and can now be a bit more retrospective.
The fruit and vegetable market was still surpringly boyant and on the surface e-coli free, I even ate an unwashed apple - a reckless decision I worry will come back to haunt me in a few days time. Munich also features some very beautiful cathedrals and no less than 3 American Apparels. We even had more pretzels than is recommended and dressed up in Laderhosen. Munich is Germany complete with all stereotypes - including some hilarious accents!
So far then a pretty successful beginning!
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