Our last day in Prague was thus spend not hungover and avoiding the tourists (whose numbers grew every day) and soaking up the Prague sun. To be honest leaving the hustle, bustle, and heat of Prague did not fill us with too much grief and the Bradford boy (the one who called me a foreigner therefore unliked by me!) informed us that Krakow was amazing and VERY cheap. This certainly filled us with joy. Before our train that evening we paid one last trip to Topshop (highlight of prague jks) then hit the supermarket to spend our last three pounds. Even more bread later off we trundled....
Now if the last night train was an experience then this one was the stuff from scary movies. The train was definitely a remnant from the Soviet Bloc with Harry Potter style carriages containing high red leather benches. We hoped to get one of these eight seater carriages to ourselves where hopefully some spooning efforts could ensure a good sleep but alas our French magnetism prevailed as a French couple joined us. The result was very little space and very little sleep. I think we attempted every possible sleeping position: curled up in balls, on the floor, stretched out, rolled round one another but generally to no avail. Not aided at all by the ticket inspector loudly coming in at 3.30am for tickets and lots of loud drunken czechs singing (though in tune as Holly optimistically pointed out!).
Now if this was bad a group of girls on our trip who had taken the same train the night before seemed to have got it much worse. Highlights include: having to change trains at 3am, being accousted by drunken czechs, being told that gypsies come on the train in the middle of the night and steal from sleeping passengers, before finally being saved by a Polish man and locked in a cabin. We were suddenly very glad for the French couple.
Our train journey ended at 7am when we were turfed out at Krakow station deliriously tired but in surprinsingly good spirits due to a sugar high. Only to be met with rain, and full on rain at that, not the British drizzle. Luckily we managed to seek refuge in the hotel lobby before we could check in at 10am. Once again scrabble passed the time remarkably quickly so that we were in bed before we knew it. The hotel is nothing special but bloody hell after a shower and nap did I feel like a Queen. And the best thing about Krakow - the cheap food we have been seeking! I have also concluded that what makes a good city, is a lack of starbucks and McDonalds, general lack of tourists, and cheap food and drink. From these criteria Krakow wins!
After two hearty meals and a sleep in a proper bed, waking up the next morning was a great deal easier especially since the all you can eat breakfast awaited us. Dodgy scrambled eggs on bread (no toasting facilities) and pre cut bananas was not exactly what I had in mind but hell it was free AND we could steal some for lunch...amazing!
Now the true work began at this point with a walking tour of Krakow - sadly the weather had yet to improve and still resembled even the UK at its worst. But compared to Prague Poland is wonderfully quiet and quite nice to walk around with a very Eastern European and distinctly Polish feel to it. Being a public holiday meant not one was around bar a few crazy old people (we presume they point and scream at everyone) so promptly ran away hiding our map.
Poland is definitely very proud of its heritage with a beautifully maintained old town square and castle. The most interesting part though is without a doubt the Jewish quarter which feels very like the ghetto with run down houses and shops yet a very atmospheric and old wordly feel to it. We managed to track down a Jewish canteen for lunch where we sampled Beetroot Soup (purple, watery, and sour but good); stew (spicy and hearty); and cheese filled dumplings (about the stoogiest meal we have ever seen!). All were delicious and cheap though but maybe not so good for the digestive system on a daily basis. As we stepped out the door (a few stone heavier) the heavens literally opened. At this point I should add that despite being Scottish I cannot abide the rain and will quite frankly do anything to avoid being in it, I was also sporting bare legs (a bad choice I know) therefore vented my anger on Lucy and huffed away. At this point it was decided that post-socialist Krakow could wait til another day....
So far other Krakow highlights include: buying two bananas, two apples, a satsuma, a pen, and mentos for just over a pound; boys turning up to do fieldwork drunk off cheap Polish vodka (of course they were found out); visiting the post-socialist town of Nowa Huta (imagine a council estate with a bit more green but comprising a huge city - very odd); and turning up on the day that the town tradition is to throw water over one another (we escaped dry thank goodness!)...
Now I am off for a free dinner courtesy of Newcastle University - amazing!
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